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	<title>Comments on: Learn to Stop Taking Photos in Automatic Mode &#8211; Tips for DSLR Photography</title>
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	<description>Just enough to be dangerous.</description>
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		<title>By: Darlene</title>
		<link>http://expertenough.com/2552/tips-for-dslr-photography#comment-4385</link>
		<dc:creator>Darlene</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2012 20:04:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://expertenough.com/?p=2552#comment-4385</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Luke

I teach photography and have been doing it for about 25 years professionally.  I&#039;d like to add a couple things if you don&#039;t mind:

- in your definitions you mention for aperture: &quot;A bigger opening allows in more light&quot; which is 100% correct but I&#039;d like to add that most beginners have a hard time understanding which is bigger and which is smaller.  The smaller the number (f1.8) the BIGGER the opening is, and vice versa - the bigger the number (f22) the smaller the opening.  It&#039;s inverse to what seems intuitive and opposite to how the Depth of Field works which is:  smaller number (f1.8), little depth of field or small amount in focus.  Bigger number (f22), larger depth of field or lost in focus.  

- I&#039;d add about shutter speed that it controls the motion in the photo.  As faster shutter speed will freeze motion or moving objects such as 1/5ooth of a second or faster.  A slow shutter speed will blur moving objects such as 1/15th and slower.  You can use this to create a certain look such as a misty look to a waterfall (using a 2-5 second exposure time) or freezing a race car on the track.  You can also do a technique called panning using a slower shutter speed like 1/30th and moving the camera to follow the subject which results in the background blurring instead of the subject.  

- what is the minimum shutter speed one should use for hand holding the camera?    I suggest 1/focal length of your lens.  So for a 200mm lens, shoot at 1/200th or faster to make sure you don&#039;t get blurry images

- Re:  &quot;starting with L series lenses&quot;  of course those are great lens but they are also very pricey things to buy and many beginners can&#039;t afford that much.  If you can&#039;t afford the top lenses it&#039;s okay to look at others or even off market brands such as Tamron and Sigma.  Do your own research and read reviews before you buy, and ideally buy at a camera store where the staff is knowledgeable.

- re: cropping too tightly:  great point.  I&#039;d also add the converse is true that most beginners I teach try to get too much in the photo and they don&#039;t get close enough to get to the subject, to actually see it and present it well.  So my tip is to get closer, and don&#039;t include too much stuff that doesn&#039;t contribute to your image.  

Cheers
Darlene]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Luke</p>
<p>I teach photography and have been doing it for about 25 years professionally.  I&#8217;d like to add a couple things if you don&#8217;t mind:</p>
<p>- in your definitions you mention for aperture: &#8220;A bigger opening allows in more light&#8221; which is 100% correct but I&#8217;d like to add that most beginners have a hard time understanding which is bigger and which is smaller.  The smaller the number (f1.8) the BIGGER the opening is, and vice versa &#8211; the bigger the number (f22) the smaller the opening.  It&#8217;s inverse to what seems intuitive and opposite to how the Depth of Field works which is:  smaller number (f1.8), little depth of field or small amount in focus.  Bigger number (f22), larger depth of field or lost in focus.  </p>
<p>- I&#8217;d add about shutter speed that it controls the motion in the photo.  As faster shutter speed will freeze motion or moving objects such as 1/5ooth of a second or faster.  A slow shutter speed will blur moving objects such as 1/15th and slower.  You can use this to create a certain look such as a misty look to a waterfall (using a 2-5 second exposure time) or freezing a race car on the track.  You can also do a technique called panning using a slower shutter speed like 1/30th and moving the camera to follow the subject which results in the background blurring instead of the subject.  </p>
<p>- what is the minimum shutter speed one should use for hand holding the camera?    I suggest 1/focal length of your lens.  So for a 200mm lens, shoot at 1/200th or faster to make sure you don&#8217;t get blurry images</p>
<p>- Re:  &#8220;starting with L series lenses&#8221;  of course those are great lens but they are also very pricey things to buy and many beginners can&#8217;t afford that much.  If you can&#8217;t afford the top lenses it&#8217;s okay to look at others or even off market brands such as Tamron and Sigma.  Do your own research and read reviews before you buy, and ideally buy at a camera store where the staff is knowledgeable.</p>
<p>- re: cropping too tightly:  great point.  I&#8217;d also add the converse is true that most beginners I teach try to get too much in the photo and they don&#8217;t get close enough to get to the subject, to actually see it and present it well.  So my tip is to get closer, and don&#8217;t include too much stuff that doesn&#8217;t contribute to your image.  </p>
<p>Cheers<br />
Darlene</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Fredrik Hertzberg</title>
		<link>http://expertenough.com/2552/tips-for-dslr-photography#comment-4110</link>
		<dc:creator>Fredrik Hertzberg</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Oct 2012 16:01:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://expertenough.com/?p=2552#comment-4110</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I decided to start playing around with aperature first. Still getting the hang of it but that combined with not cropping to closely has really improved my pictures. I plan to play around with other stuff later.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I decided to start playing around with aperature first. Still getting the hang of it but that combined with not cropping to closely has really improved my pictures. I plan to play around with other stuff later.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Sean</title>
		<link>http://expertenough.com/2552/tips-for-dslr-photography#comment-4107</link>
		<dc:creator>Sean</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Oct 2012 14:16:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://expertenough.com/?p=2552#comment-4107</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Really enjoyed the article because it reminded me of the learning curve I experienced when I really began focusing (bad pun) on taking better pictures. To lessen the learning curve I personally worked with just one aspect you mention, aperture for example, and ran through dozens, more like hundreds, of pics changing nothing but aperture, until I understood what to expect every time. Then I moved on to film speed, experimenting with fast and slow, same process, until I knew what to expect. You get the idea...it took a few months, until I went through all variables at least once and then again and then began combining them and it didn&#039;t take long until the pictures starting really taking themselves, all based on what I wanted to convey - it may have taken 20 or so almost identical shots to get what I was really looking for but it was worth it when I got it right. For anybody who really loves photography and stunning visuals, keep shooting and don&#039;t be afraid to learn the basic &#039;rules&#039; and then do everything your own way and make it yours.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Really enjoyed the article because it reminded me of the learning curve I experienced when I really began focusing (bad pun) on taking better pictures. To lessen the learning curve I personally worked with just one aspect you mention, aperture for example, and ran through dozens, more like hundreds, of pics changing nothing but aperture, until I understood what to expect every time. Then I moved on to film speed, experimenting with fast and slow, same process, until I knew what to expect. You get the idea&#8230;it took a few months, until I went through all variables at least once and then again and then began combining them and it didn&#8217;t take long until the pictures starting really taking themselves, all based on what I wanted to convey &#8211; it may have taken 20 or so almost identical shots to get what I was really looking for but it was worth it when I got it right. For anybody who really loves photography and stunning visuals, keep shooting and don&#8217;t be afraid to learn the basic &#8216;rules&#8217; and then do everything your own way and make it yours.</p>
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